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On the Menu: The wicked eggplant

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Everyone knew the eggplant was wicked. For years and years, it seemed, the eggplant was evil. The bright purple bulbs were considered an aphrodisiac by the Spaniards, a deleterious drug by the Germans, and were largely blamed for illegitimate children and runaway unwed mothers. The “purple apple of love” was after all, in the nightshade family and was related to the wolf peach; another well-known and poisonous troublemaker before the “red love apples,” became known as tomatoes.

The “purple love apples,” originated in India and Pakistan, but the trek into our modern kitchens has taken centuries.

With the domestication of the camel around 1,000 BC, the purple apples of love emerged from the Indian peninsula and rode the great camel caravans that brought trade along the Arabian coast to Egypt, and Phoenicia.

One of the first items ever traded was the murex seashell for its ability to create the color purple. Purple was instantly pleasing to the eye and became a hot commodity in the traveling camel caravans. The purple love apples were not eaten as often as they were displayed in homes as a sign of wealth. Just looking at the magical color purple, the Phoenicians believed, could stir the emotions and bring love into the home.

The purple love apples then began to travel with trading vessels along the northern African coast and soon became a household item in Morocco. When the moors invaded Spain, the purple love apples followed and arrived in Europe for the middle ages.

The provincial Spaniards however, ignored the official opinion and began growing and roasting the purple love apples for special occasions. As special occasions were vigorously celebrated, with excessive food and drink, the rumors began that the purple love apples undoubtedly created the mood for love.

When the eggplant arrived in Germany however, the Albert of Cologne, proclaimed that the bewitching plant with the beautiful purple eggs was the cause of a rising epidemic of madness. After the official German denouncement, the purple fruit became known as “mala insana,” or mad apples because when the commoners ate the purple globes they were crazed into obeying their un-harnessed emotions. The official Italian opinion agreed and even today, the purple love apples are now known in Italy as Melanzana.

European botanists however, soon became more tolerate and changed the “apple of Sodom” or “mad apples,” to “solanum melongena,” which is “bad but soothing apples.”

In France, Louis the 14th was a huge fan of the color purple and ordered his gardeners to grow the purple love apples as a decorative plant to enhance the palace grounds. Unbeknownst to Louis, the thriving eggplants were secretly coveted and eaten for their abilities to enhance romance.

The purple love apples did not cross the Atlantic and enter America until a famous American grew fond of a new dish he discovered while living in France. The roasted eggplant served with garlic, sesame, and olive oil, was one of Thomas Jefferson’s favorite foods as he served as an envoy for the newly born United States. Smitten with the exotic flavors brought into France from the kitchens of the Mediterranean, Jefferson brought seeds of the purple love apples home to be grown in Monticello. The seeds flourished in the new world and Thomas Jefferson introduced the eggplant to America.

The western globe eggplant is the common variety of purple love apple that we find in our grocery stores today and are grown in any region that is frost-free. The eggplant thrives in full sun and rich, well drained soil, and is an easy and beautiful plant to grow and harvest. There are over 30 different eggplants, but the western globe is best for making Thomas Jefferson’s favorite Mediterranean dish.

For a lusty and tasty Mediterranean treat that just might produce all kinds of possibilities, try the following recipe for Baba Ghanoush — one of Thomas Jefferson’s favorite foods from France.

Baba Ghanoush

A Middle Eastern eggplant dip, side dish or bruschetta topping

2 medium eggplant ( purple love apples)

3 cloves of garlic

1 one quarter cup tahini (sesame paste)

juice of one whole lemon

pinch of sea salt to taste

pinch of cayenne pepper

olive oil

chopped parsley

Pierce the eggplant throughout so it will not pop on the grill and cook until it is so soft it appears ready to collapse. Allow to cool, open, and scoop out the pulp. This can also be done in an oven at 400 degrees, but use a cookie sheet to catch drippings.

Place the essence of the eggplant in a food processor with the garlic, thhini, lemon juice, salt and cayenne pepper. Just before serving, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with parsley.

Bon appetite!

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